January 22, 2009

Studio director Paul Helbers mentioned "the traveling wardrobe of an African king" as the starting point for the latest men's collection from LOUIS VUITTON. That explains the luggage, but anyone who was expecting a refresher in, say, Eddie Murphy'sComing to Americawould have been deeply surprised by Helbers' interpretation of his inspiration. There were salamanderssnaking around some of the hardware on the clothes, but otherwise the emphasis was on a quietly luxe sartorialism. Even the wilder reaches of the collection—like items in alligator or antelope, in a shade of rusty orange—were as trim and precise as a cadet's jacket. And Vincent Lacrocqcould have stepped out of Star Trek: The Next Generationin his zippered rollneck top and matching pants (called a tracksuit in the show notes).

The personality of Vuitton's menswear has taken shape somewhere between traditional luxury (like the mink coat shaved into the LV Damier check, or that alligator) and a technological take on same (like a cloque blouson in nylon rather than silk, or a jacket in a shimmering nylon and wool moiré). Helbers struck his most successful balance yet between the two, but the collection could still do with a healthy shot of the playful spirit that his boss Marc Jacobsseems to bring so effortlesslyto Vuitton's womenswear.