SuzyMFW Tod’s And Bottega Veneta: Focusing On Accessories v. Clothes

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Brands that started life with shoes or bags still find moving on a challenge.

It all started in the early 1980s when brands that specialised in accessories, notably Gucci and Prada, started making clothes. It was a fashion movement that spread across the world. Will it ever stop?

Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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On a Milan fashion day when shoes from Aquazzura or Sergio Rossi are on display, with many more over the weekend, it is time to pose a question. Is a divorce now on its way for marriages between accessory creatives and fashion clothing?

Tod’s new flagship store on Via Montenapoleone.

Tod's: Feet First

Diego Della Valle and his brother Andrea are opening a new Tod’s flagship store this weekend on Via Montenapoleone, one of the most powerful shopping streets in Milan.Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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But, significantly, when it came to Friday’s runway show, the focus was on the colourful shoes, often backless with a curving kitten heel.

Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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The clothes were nice enough - fresh but fancied up with some super-light fabrics. A slim skirt with a laser-cut pattern from thigh to hem looked spruce. So did shiny dark skirts or dresses with pleats inserted like a shower curtain at one side.

Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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Loafers - gleaming golden - were the glitter choice of the moment.

But whereas Della Valle has, in the past, hired fashion designers, such as Alessandra Facchinetti, the studio team behind the current clothing no longer even comes out for applause.

Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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The big excitement for Diego and his brother Andrea was the discovery in the archives of an old 'T- for Tod's' logo which has been dusted down and used again. “Re-purposed” in the current parlance. In fact, the big 'T' appeared as a bold clasp on many of the shoulder or other handbags.

Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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It seems a wise moment to focus on what works for an established business. Or to put it more crudely: what sells.

Tod's spring/summer 2020.

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Bottega Veneta: An Uneasy Fit

Behind the big changes at Bottega Veneta is Daniel Lee, the English designer who has come via Celine (which started long ago as a French accessories house).

Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020

The Italian company was born from handbags and particularly from Bottega’s signature intrecciato weave.

So the floor with its squishy leather placed under a transparent, glassy material, made a fine introduction to the show.

Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020.

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“It’s a culmination of everything that we have been working on so far,” said Lee. “It’s about solidifying, thriving and the things we have been known for: reality dressing and clothes to live in. We want to express ease."

Really?

Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020.

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The volumes looked so awkward, with wrinkly fits at the front which might, of course, be a "new look”. However, few women want a dress that looks like an imperfect fit. Ditto for the desire to have a monkey print around the breast.

Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020.

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“We wanted to be cheeky - our ready-to-wear clothes felt very graphic and self prints are something we like - it was graphic and Matisse like.”

Conversely, the men’s outfits looked bold and strong - say wide leather shorts and a scarlet sweater.

Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020

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“Living in the moment - enjoying life,” was the designer’s mantra. And there is no doubt how influential he has become with his much-copied bags.

“For me, it’s really about the quality, which is super important to Bottega", the designer said. "That’s what I want people to take away from the show.”