An expatriate American who has lived in Germany since 1983, is a regular contributor to Germany's leading wine magazine, Vin

France

For many the home of modern wine, France has numerous guides, of which four are of particular importance. Abroad, Gault Millau may still be a well-known name, but it is hardly a presence in the country today, probably because it has changed editors – and hands – several times over the past decade. Consumers respect continuity.

They understand only too well that more consumers visit the Napa Valley each year than Disneyland, but for the moment the infrastructure of hotels, restaurants and associated cultural amusements does not exist in most European countries, which is why the Guide Hachette, with its much larger circulation, probably makes more direct impact on sales. Producers often report receiving tourists travelling with that guide under their arm, especially sharp on buying the Coup de Coeur, those wines that the panel particularly liked for their individuality and, often, value for money.

In the trade, however, the guide written by Michel Bettane and Thierry Deseauve carries the most weight, certainly because of former’s status. Like Robert Parker in America or Jancis Robinson in Great Britain, he is France’s most respected wine authority. For years, he was spiritual father of the Revue des Vins de France, that country’s leading wine magazine. Since his departure, the new editorial staff has continued to produce their own guide, which remains popular because of the magazine’s impact.

Italy

It has five major guides that influence a market made up of wine enthusiasts, restaurants and wine shop owners: Gambero Rosso, Duemila Vini, I Vini d’Italia from Espresso, I Vini di Veronelli and the Guida del Vini Italiani from Luca Maroni. The updated versions of most of these bibles appear in the late fall, during which time much debate takes place on who achieved what, if they really deserved it and the politics behind the awards and scores. “Gambero Rosso is certainly the most influential guide in Italy, says Pio Boffa of Pio Cesare in Piedmont, “and it is the only guide that has much of an impact outside the county.

Spain

In Spain, José Penin has long been the leading wine critic, but like Hugh Johnson, he has now become a brand, rather than a sole voice, and neither is any longer involved with their guides at an executive level. Instead they have become spiritual mentors, leaving the day to day tasting and writing to chosen heirs. In some cases, like that of Veronelli in Italy, the founders are not longer alive, but their names still stand for a vision.

Great Britain

In the major import markets like Great Britain, the Netherlands or Canada, a different of guide evolved that serves a slightly different purpose, namely that of educating the consumer and sorting the wheat from the chaff among the wines on offer. Hugh Johnsons’ books long served this purpose – and, given the international prevalence of the English language, his books still far outsell all other, but they seldom rate individual wines from a given vintage.

USA

Given its circulation of over 400,000 copies, a quarter of which are sold off-shore, the Wine Spectator is the most prominent voice. Not only are their scores published online, but they are also used as a marketing tool in the highly influential American market. Among professional wine buyers, the Wine Advocate enjoys a much stronger following. However, Robert Parker himself no longer much covers wine regions other than Bordeaux, the Rhône and California. Still, his 100 point ratings make strong statements, ones that many European writers are loathe to make.

Side Box - Is there a European palate, though, as opposed to an American palate?

I would definitely answer this in the affirmative, with the Europeans generally preferring a more subtle, balanced style of wine with unique character; but, in fact, even within Europe there are wide variations in acquired taste, with the Italians accepting higher alcohols that the Danish abhor. The Germans on the other hand enjoy a lively acidity in their wines that the Portuguese would find bitter.

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